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For pumpkin lovers, there may be nothing better than a simple slice of a great pie. That rich, velvety custard filling baked atop a flaky, golden crust, a great pumpkin pie is a thing of sheer beauty, a perfect way to show off the very best the squash has to offer.

Then, of course, there are the leaden hockey pucks that pass for pies at way too many a holiday gathering. Thick, dense filling — either cloyingly sweet and spiced to the hilt, or dismally bland — baked atop a crust that’s about as easy to gnaw as a Frisbee and just as flavorless.

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